Saturday, November 3, 2012

Last few days in Yosemite... For now

I somehow injured the nerve in my arm a couple days after my last post. After about a week of shooting pain in my elbow and not doing anything I decided to see the doc. He said it was a nerve problem and that I needed four to six weeks off (of anything that hurt it). He also said that I could do anything that didn't hurt it, Leaving me in the end to make the decision to go back east. I figured that I wouldn't be able to just sit around for at least a month and do nothing after climbing so much for the past 4 months. 

We decided to spend another week in Yosemite since Krystina's sister Kendall had planned to come visit us. As soon as Kendall got to California Krystina came down with a REALLY GROSS cold and basically didn't feel like doing anything at all the whole time. We did drive over to the east side to camp and go to the hot springs but after getting out of the hot water Krystina felt so bad we drove all the way back to El Portal so she wouldn't have to sleep in the cold air. It was a crazy few days but it was still really good to see Kendall for a while. The day we went to Mammoth we stopped at Mono Lake to see the Tufa Towers.
 This was my favorite shot from the day.

 Mono Lake

These things are amazing. Go here to check it out http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=514 

 A couple days after seeing the doc I went with Ron to the Cookie and Falls Amphitheater to see how my elbow felt.
German Engineering. "BMW not Mercedes... I'm 70 not 90"








We hiked in to Outer Limits and of course there was someone just getting started on it. We could tell they would be there forever so we bailed out and went to Catchy 5.10d. Ron ran up it and we both took a lap or two before dark. My arm felt really good during the climb but the next day it was really aggravated, which reaffirmed my need to just leave instead of trying to just sit around. 

The next day we went into the falls amphitheater  to 10 Years After. Ron wanted to play around with aid solo for a while. I just hung out at the base and shot some photos. It was a beautiful evening and was nice to just enjoy where I was.

Ron learning to aid solo on one of his favorite free climbing routes.



Saturday, October 13, 2012

Another Week With Patrick - Clyde Minaret

After climbing with Patrick in the meadows for a few days we wanted something away from the road and quiet. We wanted to go to the Hulk but Patrick didn't want to climb it in a party of three so we decided on Clyde Minaret. It was a great decision. We drove down to Mammoth and crashed at the hot springs, got up late the next day, drove into town got permits, coffee, food, all that stuff... It was late by the time we finished packing our bags and I had one of my "Classic Headaches" but we decided to go ahead and hike in. It is about 8 miles into Minaret Lake . We got there just at sunset and found a perfect little campsite in the trees by the lake. The sunset was beautiful, we ate something and I went to sleep hoping to wake up without the headache so we could climb.

The hike in was beautiful, once we got off the John Muir Trail and away from the Devils Post Pile tourist traffic it was quiet and peaceful . You can just see Clyde poking above the trees in the middle of the photo.

Getting closer. 

Last light on the lake. This photo is taken from our campsite. 

 Nice Sierra color at sunset.

We woke up the next morning at 6am (without a headache). More of a "Yosemite Start" than an "Alpine Start" but we were out of camp at 7am exactly to start the hour+ hike to the base of the climb. Krystina woke up feeling sick and decided to stay at camp and hike around while we were climbing. I was bummed that she couldn't go since she had carried her share of gear all that way and was really looking forward to the climb. It turned out to be a blessing though and now I'm glad it turned out the way it did.

 Looking up at Clyde from the base.

 Traversing in to start the first pitch. This is the way the first ascent party started the route and I'm really glad that we decided to go this way versus the direct start. This pitch was really fun.
 
 Cecil Lake is the lake on the left and Minaret Lake is the horseshoe shaped lake in the middle of the photo. Our campsite was in the trees at the lower side of Minaret near the bottom of the photograph.

 one of the corners about 1/3 of the way up the route.
 Looking down about 2/3 of the route. You can see the small snowfield that we would go down on the descent in the background.

We climbed the route from the ground to the proper summit in 8, 70 meter pitches. Most of them were full 70 stretchers.

Patrick took this photo of me from the summit pitch.  This buttress seemed to be the summit from our previous belay but after reaching it we still had a full rope length left up easy 5th (that didn't look easy) and then some easy 4th to the actual summit.

 Patrick on top. So Serious...

And of course the Sierra Clubs Summit Register.  We hung out only for a little while on the summit and then started down.

So, there is no Super Taco beta for this climb and I have to say that what we found for the actual climb turned out to be basically worthless. We used Peter Crofts description and one that we found on Mountain Project. They were both basically crap which we had heard and read from several accounts, but that's part of the fun in the mountains. When we got back and looked, the line we climbed turned out to match the one described in the 50 classics. The line was actually easy to follow once we decided that the two topos were crap and just climbed the natural line. This photo is of me looking down the 4th class ramp system saying "well i guess this is it... it fits the description... we can exit the ridge here and head down there..." it was the right place and after some careful ledge traversing and down-climbing we were skidding down the last talus to Amphitheater Lake.

 Amphitheater Lake, Perfect and very secluded. This was one of the most unique lakes I've seen. We traversed the lake to the notch to drop back over the ridge toward camp.


 We rappelled down a fixed rope. Through this notch to the snowfield.

Looking up at the rappel. This thing was nasty. Tons of loose rock.

I went down first and waited on the snowfield for Patrick to get down so we could rig our rope to the end of the fixed line and rap to the rock area in the middle right of this photo. After making the rap I looked up and could see another notch just down the ridge from where we made this rap that seemed easier from below. I'm not sure if it would have been but I was very glad for the fixed rope since there was so much loose rock falling.


Coiling the rope. From here we were able to walk the rest of the way to camp. We got back at exactly 7pm. 12 hours after leaving camp. Turned out to be a perfect day.

 The next morning we headed back to the car and the hot springs.
 Starting the long hike out.
 Yeeha...
 MmmmMmmm Good.

Patrick found this guy on the hike out... Pasta just got better.

More of Patrick's quick Panos.
 One the hike out.
 Near the summit.
 Half way up the route.
On the hike in.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Another Week With Patrick - Toulumne

 American Wet Dream 5.10b
This climb is like doing 5 single pitch climbs. It leaves the ground and at the end of every pitch it traverses a huge ledge to the base of the next pitch. It's a great route though and I was happy to finally get to climb it.
Patrick on the first pitch 5.9

 Me on the second pitch 10a. You can see the top of the crux 3rd pitch in the upper left corner of the rock.

 Patrick led the crux pitch 10b. 
A very nice pitch that goes from neat stemming at the crux to wide low-angle crack.

 The last 10a pitch. 

Mountaineers Dome from the base.

The top of AWD is beautiful and covered with glacier polish just like all the domes but this one has a very interesting shape to it and a fairly long walk off. I really liked this ramp/walkway leading toward the descent. It was like it was made just for us.
 Tenaya Lake and some polish on top of Mountaineers Dome.

 Beautiful trees on the descent
Perfect.

Oh yeah, krystina went with us on this one.


Euro Trash and Hobbit Book 5.11/5.7
Our second day in the meadows I was feeling like crap so we decided to do something easy. Patrick and I had been wanting to climb the hobbit book 5.7R and decided it was the perfect thing for a sick day. We started on Euro Trash 5.11/5.7 A0 which lives up to its name for sure. Its a sports climb that is total "trash." But, it is a quick way to approach the base of Hobbit Book so that makes it awesome. Hobbit Book is a really fun climb and has one really nice pitch of golden plate climbing about 2/3 of the way up the dome. The rest of the pitches are up easy corners and ramps with one steeper section of corner crack on the last pitch. The summit is gorgeous and classic. You pull the last move and stand up on the flat top of the dome. Its not the tech summit of the dome but its a perfect flat topout with a great view.
 Hobbit Book 5.7R from the parking lot. The black dot about 3/4 of the way up and just left of the huge corner in the middle of the face is another climber on the plate/face pitch of the climb.

 The Euro Trash approach to the route saves a HUGE hike around Drug Dome and across the 4th class ledge system at the base of The Book.
 nearing the top of Euro Trash. 

 The base of Hobbit Book

 The runout face pitch of perfect golden plate climbing. This pitch is great... the super taco calls it a 60ft run but it's not. I would say 30ft run over a perfect bolt with very solid climbing. In the photo you can see the bolt below me and I'm almost at the next pro in the base of the corner. It would not be a good lead for a short person that is maxing out on 5.7 but if you're used to knob climbing or slabs it's really not that bad.

 Patrick coming up the dihedral after the face bit.

Patrick likes it on top.
The view from the top... I feel repetative... Is beautiful and I never knew this little lake was even there. Very nice.

 So, Patricks camera does these quick panos. This is around a 180 view looking down the descent from near the top of the dome.

 A very nice rock on the descent. I love this place being here makes me want to study geology. 

 Heading down the descent gully.

 I'm so awkward.

 One of Patrick's true passions... Yummy Mushies.