Squamish, British Columbia

 SQUAMISH WEEK ONE...

 Squamish is one of the most perfect places I've traveled. Climbing there is some of the best, if not, the best of anywhere I've been. It quickly became my favorite place to climb. With the Moab desert still my favorite place. The climbing is as good as Yosemite, but easier to get to with a much better vibe and well....Matt Bento said it best, "Squamish is vacation Yosemite".

 This Bald Eagle flew over the place where we camped most nights. One night he had two Canada Geese carcasses that he could barely fly with. It was a really cool treat to see him. The only question I have is, Why was he in Canada? I thought they were only allowed inside the United States.

 There was a huge flock of geese hanging around the spit where we camped most nights. Some nights we just slept in the car closer to the climbing but it was so beautiful on the spit that we kept going there.

 I love this place.

 The first day we got to Squamish we drove around and checked everything out. Squamish isn't just a world class climbing destination but it also has world class kite boarding and mountain biking. This shot is from the end of the spit and the large cliff in the background is the Chief. The bulging wall just left of the bright red kite board is where the famous climbing route "The Grand Wall" is located. I've dreamed of climbing this route since I was 18 and finally was able to climb it on my third day in Squamish with Matt Bento. Unfortunately, we didn't get any photos of the climb.

 evening...

 Manyana 5.10c

 We spent a lot of time with Matt Bento and Trevor (or The Weasel). They were really fun and both are very strong climbers. Matt is leading a nice 10d at Nightmare rock and The Weasel is sleeping...

 And another evening.

 

Me and Krystina on Exasperator 5.10c. This thing was awesome, cruiser perfect locks in one long pitch that WILL make you giggle a little. 

 Arrowroot 5.10a, again perfect locks

 The classic carving to commorate the first ascent of the Grand Wall oh yeah, and Matt.

 Matt crushing in the boulders. Squamish also has some of the best bouldering I've ever seen. The boulders are spread around the dark forest. Its so thick under the canopy that we were able to boulder for a long time before the rain came through. When we left the boulder field everything was soaked and the rock was just getting wet.

 Finishing up the best smoked salmon ever.

 Krystina on High Mountain Woody 5.8

There is a Black Dike that runs through the Grand Wall for the entire height. To climb it is 5.13 and a lot of it. But, it also continues underground through the entire monalith and reapears about a mile foreward on a small cliff as a more manageble 5.10d called Chasing Rainbows. It was an awesome feature to climb and very worth tracking down.

 SQUAMISH WEEK TWO...

 

 So, We were having such an amazing time in Squamish we talked Kevin, who we were going to meet in Wyoming, into meeting us in Squamish and we would climb in Wyoming later. We picked him up in Seattle and drove him back up with the plans to leave a week later and drive him to Salt Lake to start classes. The first afternoon we climbed a couple pitches just before dark and were really looking forward to the upcoming week. We got up the next morning and did an easy multipitch route called Skywalker. We had planned to take a lunch break and then do another multipitch in the evening. We ate lunch and decided to put our feet in the river. On the way down to the water Kevin slipped on a rock and fell into the river, smacked his head on a rock, and scared the crap out of the three of us. He is fine now but I was very worried for the first few minutes. It was really crazy to see happen and at such an odd place, it was a very touristy area where anyone could go down to the river and he just slipped randomly. Thank God he was ok.

Kevin felt exhausted the next day so he hung out at the Adventure Center while Krystina and I went to climb a couple pitches. On the left Kry cleaning Neat and Cool 5.10a (and its both for sure) and the right is Kry leading Cat Crack 5.7. In the afternoon Kev was feeling better and we went out for a few very easy pitches to see how he would feel. The next day Kevin felt bad again and still wouldn't go to the doc so he rested and we went climbing without him. It really sucked to leave him but better than worring about him bumping his head again all day. Besides he got to watch a movie about the first ascent of the Grand Wall...

 The next day Kev was feeling a little better so we went out on an easy climb. We got on Diedre 5.8. Problem was it was a Saturday and the route is the "Tradgumby" dream route. It took us all day and Kry got bored after about an hour at the top or pitch one so we lowered her off and she went on a run while Kev and I suffered on. It was a very slow day but we still enjoyed hanging out and really got to know a very nice couple as well.

 Kevin at the second belay with the Howe Sound in the background. At least the view is spectacular.

Our last day in Squamish Kevin didn't want to risk lead falls but wanted to climb so we went and climbed Calculus Crack 5.8 with Matt and Krystina in two teams of two. We flew up the route and then decided to go bouldering one last time before leaving for Salt Lake.

 Kevin on Calculus Crack. MmmMmm Good, Kinda

 Kevin Bouldering the last day. YES I know that it wasn't smart but I'm not his daddy. All I could do was give him a good spot (and picture!).

Krystina on the Door Knocker of Squamish. There is a problem in Yosemite that has a loose but lodged block on it and this problem has the same. Really fun and cool to find those conections between the two places. It was a good place to end our time there. Can't wait to go back.