American Wet Dream 5.10b
This climb is like doing 5 single pitch climbs. It leaves the ground and at the end of every pitch it traverses a huge ledge to the base of the next pitch. It's a great route though and I was happy to finally get to climb it.
Patrick on the first pitch 5.9
Me on the second pitch 10a. You can see the top of the crux 3rd pitch in the upper left corner of the rock.
Patrick led the crux pitch 10b.
A very nice pitch that goes from neat stemming at the crux to wide low-angle crack.
The last 10a pitch.
Mountaineers Dome from the base.
The top of AWD is beautiful and covered with glacier polish just like all the domes but this one has a very interesting shape to it and a fairly long walk off. I really liked this ramp/walkway leading toward the descent. It was like it was made just for us.
Tenaya Lake and some polish on top of Mountaineers Dome.
Beautiful trees on the descent
Perfect.
Oh yeah, krystina went with us on this one.
Euro Trash and Hobbit Book 5.11/5.7
Our second day in the meadows I was feeling like crap so we decided to do something easy. Patrick and I had been wanting to climb the hobbit book 5.7R and decided it was the perfect thing for a sick day. We started on Euro Trash 5.11/5.7 A0 which lives up to its name for sure. Its a sports climb that is total "trash." But, it is a quick way to approach the base of Hobbit Book so that makes it awesome. Hobbit Book is a really fun climb and has one really nice pitch of golden plate climbing about 2/3 of the way up the dome. The rest of the pitches are up easy corners and ramps with one steeper section of corner crack on the last pitch. The summit is gorgeous and classic. You pull the last move and stand up on the flat top of the dome. Its not the tech summit of the dome but its a perfect flat topout with a great view.
Hobbit Book 5.7R from the parking lot. The black dot about 3/4 of the way up and just left of the huge corner in the middle of the face is another climber on the plate/face pitch of the climb.
The Euro Trash approach to the route saves a HUGE hike around Drug Dome and across the 4th class ledge system at the base of The Book.
nearing the top of Euro Trash.
The base of Hobbit Book
The runout face pitch of perfect golden plate climbing. This pitch is great... the super taco calls it a 60ft run but it's not. I would say 30ft run over a perfect bolt with very solid climbing. In the photo you can see the bolt below me and I'm almost at the next pro in the base of the corner. It would not be a good lead for a short person that is maxing out on 5.7 but if you're used to knob climbing or slabs it's really not that bad.
Patrick coming up the dihedral after the face bit.
Patrick likes it on top.
The view from the top... I feel repetative... Is beautiful and I never knew this little lake was even there. Very nice.
So, Patricks camera does these quick panos. This is around a 180 view looking down the descent from near the top of the dome.
A very nice rock on the descent. I love this place being here makes me want to study geology.
Heading down the descent gully.
I'm so awkward.
One of Patrick's true passions... Yummy Mushies.
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