Friday, July 6, 2012

East Buttress of El Cap

Patrick and Maryia came to Yos for a few days of freakishly cool late June weather. Ive wanted to climb the East Butt for a couple years and something always seemed to screw it up. It turned out to be a good route and as always I had a great time climbing with Patrick. We had a noon start and did the climb in right at 6 hours. No it doesn't count as climbing El Cap but its a good route all the same.
Patrick shot this pano of the view, turned out really nice.

 Top of the first pitch... nice wide stemming

 Getting a piece of gear after freeing the 10b crux of the climb.
Not too bad really.


Patrick on the very nice third pitch arete.




Each of us following a couple nice 5.9 pitches one of face and one of crack.


Supposedly this pitch is runout and the "psychological crux" of the route... don't think either is true. it takes gear in just the right places and is not very scary at all.  But, it does make good photos.



Basically at the top. Notice the nice #11 Hex on the rack... nope it wasn't mine. It's booty from the 5 person Japanese team that was ahead of us. 










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