Saturday, July 14, 2012

Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

I've wanted to climb in the Needles since I started climbing back in high school. We needed to fill some time so we decided to meet Patrick and climb there for 3 days. The weather forecast for the area was mid 70s while we were planning the trip. Like the brilliant person I am I didn't check the weather again assuming it would be the same. Well, it wasn't. We got up at 6 and headed for the climb at 7 topped out at noon and were back at the car at 2pm, very tired and sick from the 98 degree heat. We realized that the harder climbs that we had on our list were not going to happen so we spent the rest of the day in the shade and water waiting for the sun to go down so we could head toward Santa Barbara and the cool ocean breezes that Patrick promised us. But, the one climb that we did was great and really made me want to go back when the temps are more livable. 
The Needles, in the Southern Sierra. Voodoo Dome is the dome on the right side of the frame. The other spires will have to wait till fall.

 Krystina at the base

 Patrick leading the first pitch of White Punks On Dope 5.8. 200ft of nice easy splitter hands.
 The yellow lichen that made me dream of this place for the past 10 years. And its worth it. 

 The view from the base. 

 So this is "the pitch" number four.  A beautiful splitter finger crack with perfect locks in the back of a gorgeous corner that turns into a "wave" at the top. The top of the pitch pulls out over you like being inside the barrel of a wave before ending at a small roof area and an easy lieback to the anchor.

 Inside "the wave" section of the 4th pitch.


On top of pitch 5.

 Krystina climbing pitch 5. Patrick led this pitch.. a very nice 5.7R slab. 4 bolts in 150ft. The bolts are in the perfect places and the run outs not too bad... or was that cause I wasn't leading. Of course Patrick made it look easy and we all finished just as the sun started to turn the stone into a griddle. 


The 6th pitch, another beautiful 5.7 splitter heading directly to the summit.




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